I bought turnips last week. This may not seem noteworthy, but it was; I hate turnips.
Or, more accurately, I used to hate them. Even added to stews in pieces-too-small-to-taste or mashed into submission with perfectly good potatoes, I could always detect that distinctive sweet, yet nasty, turnip flavor–and it always gave me the willies. Ditto for rutabagas, which are just larger, meaner buddies of the turnip.
My aversion to turnips and their kin, along with my yet more active dislike for parsnips, and my at best lukewarm relationship with beets, posed some problems for a gal trying to get through the winter living off the fat of her neighbor’s land. In other words, it made it hard to eat local food in January.
For years, when the Brunswick farmer’s markets closed for the season, I would, in good conscience, all but abandon my efforts to purchase local produce. Through the bright summer and deep into the fall, I had happily fed my family on the delights of Maine farms: fresh greens, dazzling tomatoes and smoky eggplants. By December it was time to quietly return to the supermarket and resume my cold-weather affairs with out-of-season South American asparagus and zucchinis.
Then, two things happened to challenge my illicit winter veggie romances. The first was this: other people, tougher people, (you know, people who eat turnips) succeeded in bringing a winter farmer’s market to Brunswick. In a rare example of how not everything is going downhill, the number of farmer’s markets nationwide is growing, up 13% in the last year alone.
We are discovering the benefits of buying local food–benefits that spill bountifully into our communities, our economies, our landscapes, our soils, our waters, and our health.
Okay, great. Yet I couldn’t help but picture our new winter market, tucked picturesquely into the vast timbered halls of Fort Andross, humming with wholesome activity, and filled to the rafters with turnips, beets, and parsnips. I didn’t want to go.
But now my conscience started to twinge. Eating locally is one of the single most important actions we can take to heal the planet. I’ve written entire articles about the soul-redeeming glory of eating food from next door. Well, that may be fine when there are fresh green beans next door, but turnips?
The second thing that happened was that I started buying farm shares. A farm share entitles you to a portion of a specific farm’s produce for the upcoming season. One week you might get fat cucumbers, spicy arugula, and piles of tomatoes. Another week you’ll have brimming bags of baby bok choys, striped squashes, and barely containable gangly green kales.
Toward the end of the year, though, you will inevitably have to face the dreaded appearance of the turnip family. It’s true you could leave the little buggers at the farm, or chuck them out the window on the way home, but personally I could never bring myself to do that. For one, I paid for them.
More importantly, however, I felt a responsibility to like them; indeed, on some level I believed in them. These guys were, after all, among the crops that used to get people through Maine winters. So, every fall I dutifully took them home and stuffed them into the back of the fridge.
Now, another winter has rolled around, bringing days of early dark, low light, and cold fingers. The outdoor markets are closed. I peer tentatively into the back of the fridge and yes, it’s filled with turnips, lots of them, and they are just fine, thank you.
I take a deep breath and I make a huge pot of turnip soup. My family, bless their hearts, say, “YUM!” at the first bite. Of course, I don’t believe them. True, this soup has browned onions and butter; it has good homemade chicken stock; as well, it has pan-fried croutons with parmesan cheese, but in its pale heart it is turnip all the way down.
I take a small sip. And, it is, in a word, fabulous. All those years of making myself eat little bits of poorly camouflaged turnips had worked some inexplicable rooty magic. I had learned to like them.
This is a more profound development than it seems. It’s one thing to try to buy from local sources the foods you already enjoy. But, the idea that you might learn to like something or that you should try to learn to like something – primarily because it’s a staple local crop – is, well, radical. I doubt I would have managed it on my own.
By committing to buy a good chunk of my food directly from farmers, I had made a contract with local food–the terms of which were dictated by our climate and our soils. This is what can be grown, fished, and fattened on Maine’s lands and waters. Bon appetit.
The weekend after my victory soup I held my head high and went to the winter farmer’s market because now, heck, I could eat turnips with the best of them. There were turnips, to be sure, but also spinach, red cabbages, yellow and purple carrots, heaps of buttery potatoes, cheeses, meats and fresh seafood on ice, pastries and breads, tarts and jams, kale and leeks. There was music and mittens, yarn and sheepskins, honeys and soaps. I’m becoming a regular. I buy turnips.
In these last few months I have also, I admit, gone to the supermarket and bought heads of scandalously cheap lettuce and boxes of clementines from places golden and far away. But for the most part I’ve been happy as a Maquoit Bay clam, with nary a lustful glance at the Mexican broccoli.
Now, if I could just learn to like parsnips.
The Brunswick winter Farmer’s Market at Fort Andross is open on Saturdays from 9:00 AM to 12:00 PM.